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C600 / Faraday diss-assembly

43 posts in this topic

Posted (edited) · Report post

First, a note of caution. This is a *guide* you follow at your own risk. If you are in any way unsure, don't try it. If you've done a Typhoon or similar before, you'll have no problems.

THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY so only do it if you REALLY have to, for example you need to replace a smashed LCD or scuffed fascia. Remember kids, crying to HTC won't help if you can't get it back together again :cry:

You'll need a good torx T5, a small flat blade screwdriver and a plastic tool to prise open the case. Try to work in a low-dust environment to minimise the risk of dust entering the screen area.

( I am working on the phone face down for reference to directions with the external aeriel rubber bung, battery, minisd card and sim removed.)

First remove the aeriel cover using the flat blade screwdriver at a 45 degree angle in the two holes either side at the top of the battery. Prise the catches slightly until there is enough gap for you to insert your case opening tool ( or fingernal / knife etc) between the aeriel cover and chassis and lift the aeriel cover in an upwards and outwards motion.

Once the aeriel cover is off, remove the 4 chassis screws ( two at the bottom, two at the top) and 2 circuitboard screws in the battery compartment.

Next, take your case opening tool, turn the phone over so the LCD is facing you, and open the casing by sliding the tool between the fascia and chassis at a downwards angle from the bottom right corner. Once the fascia clips have been freed, lift the fascia / board out of the chassis starting from the top. The camera / external speaker module is fixed to the chassis ( unlike typhoon) so take care to disconnect the ribbon cable once you have enough room to insert your opening tool to lift the connector. Don't just pull it apart.

To remove the mainboard, first disconnect the keypad gently using your case opening tool or fingernail etc to lift the connector near the simcard gate.

The mainboard is held into the chassis by two clips, 1 halfway down either side. Prise these away and slowly lift the board. If the LCD is firmly stuck to the foam surrond of the fascia use your case opening tool to lift it gently.

If you want to, remove the RF shielding from the aera on the mainboard under the LCD. Look ma, no wireless chip!.....

The keypad circuitboard is held in place by two clips. With the keypad face down, prise the left hand side up -do not pull on the connection ribbon - and lift the keypad upwards towards the earpiece to clear the locating lugs at the bottom of the fascia. Note the orientiation of the soft key rubber button pushers - if you get these the wrong way around on re-fitting the buttons will feel strange.

The directional button has a dust cover underneath it - this unit's was full of dust! After cleaning this area with an old toothbrush I now find it more responsive.

Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note, if you are replacing any cosmetic parts, you must ensure you do it properly. For example, make sure when swopping the earpiece you also swop the rubber surround as this provides dampening for the speaker casing and reduces tinnyness.

If you only want to remove the fascia without voiding the warranty sticker there is no reason you cannot, if you have dexterous fingers to remove the keypad from the fascia with the board still in the chassis ;)

Richard

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Edited by fluffcat1
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Posted · Report post

Good job , but I wish you took clearer pictures. Especially at full screen they are not doing much good to eyes. ;)

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Posted · Report post

Good job , but I wish you took clearer pictures. Especially at full screen they are not doing much good to eyes. :P

Tell you what, buy me a new camera or start paying for my stripdown guides and then I'll start caring what you think of my pics.... ;)

Richard

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Posted · Report post

Tell you what, buy me a new camera or start paying for my stripdown guides and then I'll start caring what you think of my pics.... ;)

Richard

Good manual!! And pictures are good to understand also! Apreciate your work!!

For people who don't see clear pictures:

http://www.theslurps.com/

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Posted · Report post

Thanks for treading the ground, the dust from my pockets is making its way behind the screen of my C600 now, getting very annoying.

Cheers for the guide.

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Posted · Report post

Yes, very well done. I just pulled the faces off 2 Cingular 2125's to fix buttons and joysticks without voiding the warranty based on these instructions. Thanks!

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Posted · Report post

Nice guide, there very easy to understand for example your C550 one was great.

Hopefully I will never need to use this as I hope my C600's joystick wont mess up.

I see you enjoy spaghetti then

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Tell you what, buy me a new camera or start paying for my stripdown guides and then I'll start caring what you think of my pics...

You should take some anger management classes, or just post locked topics if you cannot handle criticism, pal.

Mini Man, I suggest don't make fun of Richard's cables, he may get upset or ask you to buy him a cable organizer or wireless equipment. ;)

Edited by hyedipin
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Posted · Report post

You should take some anger management classes, or just post locked topics if you cannot handle criticism, pal.

Mini Man, I suggest don't make fun of Richard's cables, he may get upset or ask you to buy him a cable organizer or wireless equipment. ;)

;)

No-one asked you to read the guide, look at the pictures or comment on them....if the pictures are not good enough for you then just read the text. They do not need to be good pictures - it's not exactly rocket science and so long as you get a general idea of how to do it they are fine. (If I do guides for soldering componants onto the boards I make the pictures clearer.) If you need 'better pictures' to show where to jam a lever to prise open a phone casing perhaps you should take it into the shop and pay someone else to do it?

As for your last comment?....errr,ok..... :P He wasn't actually criticising my cables and I wasn't showing a picture of them for people's benefit, he was just making a joke.

You on the other hand were criticising something I have done for free for the benefit of others - to minimise the amount of time taken and actually get it posted I have done it quickly as people have started asking. *I* don't need to do guides - I have no problem opening most models of phone even if I have never seen one before but other people do so I've done this for them.

As for anger management, if you can tell that from one sentance then a career as a consultant in the NHS in the UK awaits. You, however, need to take classes in POLITENESS.

Richard

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Posted · Report post

I see you enjoy spaghetti then

post-160616-1147454416_thumb.jpg

That's actually my 'b' area ( mac mini in the tangle towards centre bottom ) and there's be more cables except I don't have enough power sockets to run a USB hub there. You should see the main desk..... ;)

Richard

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Posted · Report post

You should see the main desk.....

Lol, I used to have it like that but then I bought some cable tidys and now my desk is really clear, cant say much for my TV unit though

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;)

@ hyedipin

I hardly think laughing at spaghetti is worse than saying his pictures are no good. Like his C550 guide for example the pictures show everything you need to see and just give a general view of what it should look like when your doing it.

Richards done a hell of lot for this forum and I dont think stupid comments like that are going to motivate him into making more useful guides like this!

Again nice work Richard

Sam

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Posted · Report post

Whatever guys, have it your own way.

All I said was pictures look bad. And that's the truth. Politeness? Because your pictures look ugly I gotta be polite and ignore them.. Someone else would go ahead and say "you are right, I messed up on the focus, but thanks for the comment", now that's politeness.

I guess you missed my pat-on-the-back "good job" comment.. Chill out.

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Posted · Report post

Pat-on-back (left hand)

Slap in face (right hand)

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Posted · Report post

Pat-on-back (left hand)

Slap in face (right hand)

Lol that made me laugh

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Posted · Report post

elzaido, I don't think I was that harsh. Really, if I said sounded like that, sorry.. ;)

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Posted · Report post

elzaido, I don't think I was that harsh. Really, if I said sounded like that, sorry..

Well it looks like hyedipin has learnt his/her lesson so lets set everything straight and now we can all be friends again. ;)

Oh yeh btw Richard have you now proved there is no wifi chipset on the C600?

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Posted · Report post

Oh yeh btw Richard have you now proved there is no wifi chipset on the C600?

;) Why if only I'd taken clearer photos you'd see in picture number 5 there is a big gap on the circuit board under the RF shielding I removed where there is a BGA connection grid and no chip.....Oh well ;)

In theory if you could source the chip it could be fitted here and baked in an oven to solder the connections, but I wouldn't like to try it. Somebody at XDA-dev has removed a ball-grid array componant from a wallaby board using his mother's kitchen oven to bake it :P

Richard

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Posted · Report post

Heh heh, I guess that means theres no hope unless you go to the extreme.

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Tell you what, buy me a new camera or start paying for my stripdown guides and then I'll start caring what you think of my pics.... ;)

Richard

Now now, let's not get angry at people :]

If you'd like I can take some photos with my 30D and post them up here if it'll benefit your guide :P

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fluffcat1 - are you 100% sure it's a T5? I've just tried a T5 and it's a wee bit too big. I might have been stiffed on the driver size mind!

Anyone recommend a good place to buy a T5, and don't say eBay :)

Beers

randal.

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fluffcat1 - are you 100% sure it's a T5? I've just tried a T5 and it's a wee bit too big. I might have been stiffed on the driver size mind!

Anyone recommend a good place to buy a T5, and don't say eBay :)

Beers

randal.

Errrr yes i am sure ta. Buy some better screwdrivers. Maplin?

t6 is a "wee bit too big" but can be forced, t5 is just right.

Richard

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Posted · Report post

I had the problem with the joy stick and the dusty screen so thought I'd give this a try.

All went fine, put it back together and realised I'd left a nice greasy thumb print on the screen. :D

It's probably something relatively simple as the speaker works and headset works but when I answer the phone normally the other person can hear me but I can't hear them. Any suggestions?

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Posted (edited) · Report post

HI there I am having problems here. Thanks for the guide, just what I needed for the reasons you outline. Problem is. I removed battery cover, Sim, memory card and battery, all good. Then removed the top cover for the aerial etc, all ok.

Then upon prising cover away from the main chassis there seems to be 2 things stopping me, up by the aerial there is tension and also in the middle of the keys, feels like just behind where the memory card sits.

Any ideas? Dont want to break anything

EDIT: lol seems following instructions isnt my strong point

there are 4 chassis screws including the 2 which are by the aerial. DOH.

Edited by CasperUK
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Posted · Report post

I finally did it... my joystick was having a tough time going right and it recently has started having issues going down. After following the instructions it was easy.

Though the instructions are great, I would like to make some additions:

Removing the rubber antenna port cover isn't necessary.

Removing the plastic antenna cover is tricky and using a jeweler's screwdriver at an angle closer to parallel with the battery compartment would be easier. What you're doing is pushing a tab that locks against the phone's frame. Push it towards the top of the phone a bit and pull up the side at the same time to make it clear the tab.

Use some canned air and spray out all the dust and junk. I had plenty of dog hair and tobacco in mine. If you get dust or dirt on the LCD, try to use the air to blow it off. Avoid using cleaners/rags on the LCD since it usually just smears stuff around. If you must clean a smudge off, try a dry microfiber cloth first.

I used a tiny bit of electrical contact cleaner to fix the joystick. After removing the nub and dust shield, I very gently sprayed through the applicator tube where the stick meets the base of the switch. Then I worked the joystick around, pressed the button, etc.

After reassembling it workes great!

That's pretty much it - I had no problems following the directions since I've disassembled plenty of phones, soldered LEDs, etc... Worst part was the plastic antenna cover.

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Posted · Report post

Removing the plastic antenna cover is tricky and using a jeweler's screwdriver at an angle closer to parallel with the battery compartment would be easier. What you're doing is pushing a tab that locks against the phone's frame. Push it towards the top of the phone a bit and pull up the side at the same time to make it clear the tab.

I assume from your location and previous posts you were working on your 2125 rather than c600? The chassis and aeriel cover is quite different. I use a 45 degree lever angle as the c600 aeriel cover will pivot around the clips on the top of the phone, the 2125 has a longer aeriel and chassis and cannot do this in the same way so perhaps some photos of your method for the 2125 might help others.

Typhool did a 2125 -> c600 conversion method attached in this thread:

http://www.modaco.com/index.php?showtopic=240947&st=0

Richard

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