Guest fluffcat1 Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 (edited) First, a note of caution. This is a *guide* you follow at your own risk. If you are in any way unsure, don't try it. If you've done a Typhoon or similar before, you'll have no problems. THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY so only do it if you REALLY have to, for example you need to replace a smashed LCD or scuffed fascia. Remember kids, crying to HTC won't help if you can't get it back together again :cry: You'll need a good torx T5, a small flat blade screwdriver and a plastic tool to prise open the case. Try to work in a low-dust environment to minimise the risk of dust entering the screen area. ( I am working on the phone face down for reference to directions with the external aeriel rubber bung, battery, minisd card and sim removed.) First remove the aeriel cover using the flat blade screwdriver at a 45 degree angle in the two holes either side at the top of the battery. Prise the catches slightly until there is enough gap for you to insert your case opening tool ( or fingernal / knife etc) between the aeriel cover and chassis and lift the aeriel cover in an upwards and outwards motion. Once the aeriel cover is off, remove the 4 chassis screws ( two at the bottom, two at the top) and 2 circuitboard screws in the battery compartment. Next, take your case opening tool, turn the phone over so the LCD is facing you, and open the casing by sliding the tool between the fascia and chassis at a downwards angle from the bottom right corner. Once the fascia clips have been freed, lift the fascia / board out of the chassis starting from the top. The camera / external speaker module is fixed to the chassis ( unlike typhoon) so take care to disconnect the ribbon cable once you have enough room to insert your opening tool to lift the connector. Don't just pull it apart. To remove the mainboard, first disconnect the keypad gently using your case opening tool or fingernail etc to lift the connector near the simcard gate. The mainboard is held into the chassis by two clips, 1 halfway down either side. Prise these away and slowly lift the board. If the LCD is firmly stuck to the foam surrond of the fascia use your case opening tool to lift it gently. If you want to, remove the RF shielding from the aera on the mainboard under the LCD. Look ma, no wireless chip!..... The keypad circuitboard is held in place by two clips. With the keypad face down, prise the left hand side up -do not pull on the connection ribbon - and lift the keypad upwards towards the earpiece to clear the locating lugs at the bottom of the fascia. Note the orientiation of the soft key rubber button pushers - if you get these the wrong way around on re-fitting the buttons will feel strange. The directional button has a dust cover underneath it - this unit's was full of dust! After cleaning this area with an old toothbrush I now find it more responsive. Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note, if you are replacing any cosmetic parts, you must ensure you do it properly. For example, make sure when swopping the earpiece you also swop the rubber surround as this provides dampening for the speaker casing and reduces tinnyness. If you only want to remove the fascia without voiding the warranty sticker there is no reason you cannot, if you have dexterous fingers to remove the keypad from the fascia with the board still in the chassis ;) Richard Edited May 1, 2006 by fluffcat1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now